Back Roads - Lake Tahoe to Apple Hill via Highway 4

My daughter and I had been planning our annual Apple Hill trek for several days when I decided to change it up a bit. Since my free time is so rare I figured why not include a visit to our favorite little town Sutter Creek? And then, since we're doing that, might as well throw in a drive down beautiful Highway 4! Since the portion of the road we'll be covering is closed after the first big snow we had to do it! The day was plotted on a map in my head with some verification on google maps. The map said our little trip was going to take 5 hours and 10 minutes and cover 225 miles. Of course, that doesn't include time to stop and enjoy places along the way.

So here we are at 8 am Sunday, leaving the house and skipping a day of football to do "our drive." We stopped by my daughter's friend's home to pick her up for the journey. Her mother is told we may be back in 10-11 hours.

First stop: Hope Valley! Already aglow with the golds and reds of fall. we stopped for a couple of photos at Sorenson's resort. It looks like the full burst of color is still a couple of days away, but no more. Hopefully we can make it back next week for more color photos.

Back in the car for the beautiful drive along Hwy 88 towards Woodfords and then along Hwy 89 through Markleville. Not many cars on the road as we pass by but I know that the fall color seekers will soon be out in force. We didn't make stops here since they are closer to our "stomping grounds" and just a short 30 minute drive from home. I love the drive along the Carson River past Markleville. So peaceful and, if the presence of dozens of fisherman is any indication, full of fish. This area is also home to the Carson River Resort. It is great to just drive by and take in the surrounding beauty. 32 miles after we left home we begin our climb to the intersection of Highways 89 and 4 (driving over Monitor pass will have to be another trip). A word of advice: there aren't any restroom facilities (and no gas) for the next hour or so make a stop in Markleville (but there are couple of campgrounds along the way for emergencies).

Its a surprise to come across a little ranch (The Chalmer's Mansion and Pioneer Cemetery) as well as Scossa's Cow Camp soon after. The area was home to many pioneers in the late 1800's who came for the silver and milling operations. The stage traveled this road as well.

The next part of the trip is not for the faint of heart or if you tend to get car sick. There are switchback turns and the middle line of the road is gone. But, the beauty makes up for any discomfort! 42 miles from our start we pull over to catch a glimpse of the beautiful mountains and valley opened out in front of us. The jagged peaks of Volcanic Neck are to the right (see photos). There are several more photographic spots along the way but no turnouts on the road to pull into for a photo, so just enjoy the views.

Three miles later we come across Kinney Reservoir. The water is very low by the looks of the markings on the side, but still a very nice setting with Ebbetts Peak looming in the background. There are a few cars parked here but nobody is in site. I learned later that there are two lakes above the reservoir: Lower and Upper Kinney Lake so I assume the owners of the cars have walked on to these spots.

I found out later about a nice website that gives all the details about the Ebbetts Pass National Scenic Byway that deserves a good review before taking this drive.

Just 46.5 miles from South Lake Tahoe is Ebbetts Pass. The elevation at this point on the road is 8,730 ft above sea level. Its hard to imagine that they once wanted the transcontinental railroad to go over this pass!

As we drive along the still unmarked Highway 4 we wonder where all the trucks carrying 4WD vehicles are headed since their trailers must be a tough haul around the hairpin corners that lay ahead. I found out there there is a point on the road that takes these outdoor enthusiasts all the way to Blue Lakes near Hope Valley!

After passing Hermit Valley we come across a very picturesque picnic spot. The lone table on the edge beckons you to come in and enjoy a lunch. Once sitting there you're treated with fabulous views of the valley and mountains. Even if you didn't bring a picnic its a great spot to stop (58 miles from South Lake Tahoe).

Just 3 miles later you may feel like you're coming into civilization as you come across Lake Alpine Resort. There are beaches and camping as well as boat rentals, cabins, a market, bar and restaurant. You can sit on the outside deck and enjoy breakfast or lunch while looking out at the lake. This past weekend was the last weekend they're open for the season though so catch them next year!

The rest of the drive downhill takes you through several mountain towns from Bear Valley to Arnold and through the Calaveras Big Trees State Park.

Our next stop of the day is the historic town of Murphys. It's tree lined streets and charming shops and restaurants warrant a destination overnight trip (next time). At this point we've been in the car for 2 hours and 45 minutes and have covered 102 miles. You can miss the historic part of town if you stay on Highway 4 so look for "Main Street" and follow the signs. If you follow main street you'll come across a winery and the back way to our next stop, Highway 49.

Highway 49 is a historic tour all its own and one can spend days exploring all its nooks and crannies. Our next stopping spot is the town of Sutter Creek. We have been here before and just love its charming shops and old time appearance. My favorite store is the "Antique Gardner" which is exactly the type of place I'd love to own. I wish I could have everything in the store! We normally eat at JD's but tried a new spot that was recommended by one of the shop owners, called Thomi's. The outside seating was very charming and the food was fairly good (I had the spinach salad with walnuts, cranberries, chicken and assorted other goodies), but the service was slow..the type of spot you enjoy when you've got time on your hands! We love Sutter Creek and will be back for the holiday celebration.

Onward along 49 to our last stop of the day, Apple Hill. The teens in the car are such good troopers and we are all anticipating the apple treats awaiting us! My family has 3 stops we have to make every year when visiting Apple Hill....Boa Vista, Kids Inc and Apple Ridge Ranch. Since this is apple season they expect 1000's of cars a day every weekend so our arrival time of 3 pm is just about right. Lines are smaller and fewer cars are on the back roads but there are still plenty of folks enjoying this fall tradition. At Boa Vista we've been buying fresh cider and apple doughnuts for years. The wait in the pastry line is worth it, as usual.

Next stop is Kids, Inc. When younger, my kids enjoyed their fields and animals as well as their famous treat, the Walking Pie. We are not fans of pie but there is something about this delectable creation that makes us have one a year. Another line, but another line that's worth it. The fresh and hot walking pies are ordered with a serving of hot cider sauce over the top. I also bought a bottle of that stuff...never really use it but I have it in the fridge every fall! We make our way back to the car and drive off to our final stop of the day, Apple Ridge Ranch. We don't get their apples but we do walk around and visit with the farm animals. The main reason we stop is because of a booth at their market on the lawn. The beef jerky guy is there every year and my daughter is in love with his peppered jerky. She and her friend also buy bracelets at a neighboring booth and we're all ready to call it a day.

The odometer says 233 miles as we pull into the driveway and its 6:15 pm. A great day with lots of scenery, history and family time.

See you on the back road.